Pleating!

A pleat is a type of fold in cloth. Pleats are created by doubling fabric back on itself and pressing it, or sewing it into place. Pleats that are pressed are neat and sharp folds, while pleats that aren't pressed often give loose folds in the fabric. There are lots of different types of pleating.

1. Knife Pleating

This is where all the fabric is folded in the same direction and then sewed or pressed to hold in place. This is a very neat type of pleating. It is one of the most commonly used forms of pleating. You often see it on school uniforms.

Karl Lagerfield of incorporates pleats into his designs for Chanel. In these two designs knife pleating is used.

chanel

chanel

 Issey Miyake used knife pleating here to create a very extravagant garment.

issey miyake

Burberry Prorsum

issey miyake, pleats please

2. Box Pleats

Box pleats are made when you get a piece of material and fold it, then beside that folded piece you fold another piece of material of the same length. Place the two folds directing away from one another. It should look like the diagram above.

Dion Lee, Autumn/winter 2011

Elie Saab

Galliano, Fall/Winter 2012

Roberto Cavalli, Spring 2012

Roberto Cavalli

3. Inverted  Pleats

Inverted pleats is kind of like making box pleats and turning them inside out. Inverted pleats are when you fold two pieces of the fabric towards eachother and then attach them together at the top. Here are some examples where they've been used.

nina ricci

Dior 1953

Valentino Resort, 2012



4. Partial Pleats
After looking lots I still can't figure out what these are! The world is full of mysteries :)

5. Projecting Pleats
These are pleats that are generally pinched or folded at the top or bottom of the pleat so they become 3D and stand out from the fabric. Here are some examples.

Gucci 2010

Georgio Armani

Gucci 2012



6. Accordion Pleating
Accordion Pleating is where you fold the fabric back and forth, over and over again in a fan-like way. You then press or sew mini-darts into these folds to hold them in place. The fabric then resembles an accordion or a fan.

 Dior 1950

 John Galliano

 Issey Miyake

 Marchesa

Vera Wang



7. Wrinkled Pleats
Wrinkled pleats is where you scrunch or fold together damn fabric, secure it tightly and leave it to dry. Irregular shaped pleats are formed when you pull the material apart. I think this is one of the most interesting pleating methods as it can look really delicate.

Vera Wang 2011

Elie Saab uses wrinkled pleats on the garment to the right.

 Elie Saab, Fall 2010